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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end establishments. However, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary triumph.